• Archives
   -- RSS feed
   -- Atom feed

Dust collector wiring

Douglas writes …

I am in the market for the G0441. The issue I am having is the new Grizzly documentation says the following

     Amps running: 22.4A
     Min Circuit breaker: 40Amps

As you have one what size circuit are you running it on? Does it trip the breaker? Also, it appears from the manual (old and new) that the electrical cord from the unit is 12 AWG and it’s to be hard wired. Am I reading that correctly? I won’t get into the NEC issue of hard wiring a 12AWG wire to a 40 AMP breaker line…… and yes I pointed this out to Grizzly but was only told they would push this question to their engineer …

It lives on a 30A breaker feeding a 10/2 line.

I’ve had my G0441 for over 4 years now. It’s run quite a bit, sometimes hours on end, and has never tripped the breaker. I was curious what the documentation that shipped with my G0441 said about electrical supply, but I can’t find it. Which is weird, because I always keep all the docs on tools in my filing cabinet. I have no idea what happened to it, but I’m sure that if it called for a 40A breaker I would have installed it with appropriate wire.

Perhaps the newer models have motors that generate a stronger startup surge that would temporarily push them over 30 amps. Not enough to require a heavier gauge of wire but would trip a 30 amp breaker. That’s my only guess why you’d want a 40 amp breaker for a 23 amp load. But in that case, I don’t see how you can justify not going with a wire capable of handling 40 amps, because if you have an issue and overload the wire (lets say 38 amps) you’ll have a bad situation where the breaker isn’t protecting the wire as it should.

Bottom line, if Grizzly can’t explain what’s the deal with the load vs breaker vs motor wire, I’d pass. I’ve gotten very turned off on Grizzly the last couple years, I wouldn’t even consider them for any new equipment purchases.

Dewalt RAS needs new wire

Filed under: Electrical,Tools

Checking out my new 50-year-old Dewalt radial arm saw, I’m finding that I need to replace some of the wiring.  The insulation has become extremely stiff and brittle, so that is snaps if you bend it

Luckily, the wires actually going into the motor itself are the braided-cover type.  I think it’s actually some kind of fabric that hasn’t deteriorated like the rubber/plastic covered wires coming into the motor.

I thought that perhaps I might be able to just cut the end of the wires off and expose some fresh wire whose insulation hadn’t been deteriorated.  Alas, while wire from inside the main wire jacket was not nearly as bad, you can see that it was still deteriorated enought that bending the wire will still cause it to split.

Compare this to a wire removed from a similar cable that’s only a couple years old

The wires running to the stop/start switches, interestingly enough, are not brittle like the motor wires.  But I might as well replace them, too, while I’m at it.

Understanding how the controls worked was a bit of a mystery at first.  The way the switches work is rather odd, I had to use a ohmmeter to find how they behaved

At first, I assumed that this contactor was something rigged onto the saw’s table.  However, after looking at it more and especially considering that two of the wires match the fabric-wrapped wires in the motor, I’m thinking this is factory-original.

Quite frankly, I’ve never seen a relay like this.  It appears to use a 120V control circuit and the buttons close one circuit for start and another one for stop.  Luckily, when they removed the head from the table, they cut the control wires instead of removing them, so I know exactly how to wire it back together.  Also, after an hour or so of puzzling over the rest of the wiring, I discovered this wiring diagram on the inside of the cover

Straightening out a mess

Filed under: Electrical

I’m installing a new garage door opener.  However, I’ve spent half my time straightening out the electrical wiring.  There are two circuits running from the panel box, one that’s supposed to be lighting and one for electrical outlets.  What I’m finding is that there are some lights wired to the outlet circuit and vice-versa.  Also, while I have 20 amp (12/2) wiring running on these circuits, the outlets are only 15 amp.

I can’t complain too much, though, because it’s my own fault.  I wired up this area years ago, before I really understood what little I know about wiring and was in too much of a hurry to do it right.  I’ve also tapped into the light circuit for outlets for convenience.

Now, you might say “so, no big deal”.  Well, yes, it is.  The biggest danger, offhand, is when you want to work on an outlet and you kill what you think is the right circuit, only to find that the outlet you’re pulling apart is on the lighting circuit and therefore live.  Ouch.

Lesson learned: take the time to do it right.


    Questions? Comments? Offers of free cash? Email me at